Hoyt MagnaTec
 35" axle to axle with a 28" draw @ 61 pounds.  Not sure of the fps yet, waiting on the shop's chrono to get fixed.  To go with the training wheels I got Hoyt FiberOptic sights and a NAP QuickTune shoot through rest, quiver, cat whiskers, Limb Savers, kisser button, TruFire release and a release loop.  I'll get a stabilizer eventually.  Shooting Carbon Express Terminators with G5 Tekan mechanical tips, sort of a hybrid with a solid fixed cut on contact tip and replaceable expandable blades.

Parker Challenger, 26" draw, set right now 49 pounds, most it can go, fps i don't know yet, killed  a 6 point with it September 14th 2002, kisser button, string loop, doinker stabilizer, limb saver, and shooting carbon arrows with a Steel Force fixed broadheads, 100 grain.
 
I would like to increase the draw weight that way i can get farther shots and make it seem like i am not a wimp..
 
But 49 pountds is the max my parker will go, next year i will get a martin, and maybe get it up to 50-55 pounds..
 
good luck to you this season and god bless :D

60's Bear Tamerlane with 35lb draw. American Archery Cheetah with 60lb draw when I can muster up the strength. Several other bows, too. I just shoot for the hell of it. I have this Horse bow that I got shipped from Mongolia. It's prett nice. It's really short, like...  45" with a short draw too. it's made of wood and fiberglass, and the whole thing is wrapped in black leather. The siyahs aren't made of horn or even fiberglass, but of wood. They don't serve too much function on this little bow, though. Still fun to shoot. I also have a few Pearson bows like.. a 50# Javelina, a 45# Mustang and a #30 Rogue. Nice bows, too.   I shoot my dad's longbow which is only a #20 draw or so, but hella fun to shoot in an open field. Kinda gives the sense of a medieval battlefield or something.  Anyway.. that's what i shoot.

PSE Triton 70#  29" draw
Trophy Ridge vertical 3-pin sight
Trophy Ridge drop zone rest
Beaman 340 ICS carbon arrows
Muzzy 3-blade 100g broadheads
tru-fire release, PSE quiver, Ultra-Nok II,
limb savers, string leaches
stabilizer
 
This is a new setup for me this year.  I've only been out a few times so far and had a few does slip by before shooting light and I passed on one small 6 pointer last weekend.  Hopefully I'll be able to post a few pictures for you all when (and if!!) I'm successful!!   Good luck to all and be safe!!
 
S. Trapp

PSE Firestorm 30" axle to axle, 26" draw, 56lbs. draw, Cobra Sidewinder 3pin, no stablizer, mechanical release (trufire), quick-tune drop away 4000 arrow rest, kisser button, easton 2115 arrows, 28", 100grain field tips, Muzzy 4 Blade 100grain broadheads for hunting, 193 FTP average.

Jennings G2 33" axle to axle. draw weight 70 lbs, single pin sight, trap door rest, 100 gr thunderhead, easton 400 arrows

Martin Impala, Rover rest, PSE True Glo, 70lbs 31" draw

PSE DeerHunter
Droptine Whisker Biscuit QS
53# 38" axle to axle
65% letoff
Gold tip Carbon arrows
not sure what site i have

Reflex escursion cam 1/2 58# , archers choise sights, quicktone arrowrest, limesavers, stringleaches, easton axis arrows, muzzy 3 blade, (thinking of switching to wasp if you have any comments on them)

Hello all, I have no concept of any of this bow talk, Just how do you learn all this ? I have never bow hunted but would like to learn but have no knowledge of it what-so-ever. I just got a call from my step dad who just bought himself a new bow and he is going to give me the one he has been using. All I know is it's a compound bow. He said it would have to have some adjustments. I'm hoping he will teach me the basic ins and outs of the sport. Where do I go to learn how to do this ? Is it like swimming ? Just jump in with both feet and go at it LOL....:D

Got my bow it is a browning compound. It is shooting to the right and hitting the arrow rest plan on taking it to the shop. Anyone have any suggestions as to how to adjust it ? Since I'm a beginner feel it would be better to have someone that's knowledgable help me out. Just came in from making couple predator stands and used the regulator 10 and here came a doe about 15 yards from me in the wide open field....I sure thought about my bow then ha ha .  :D

You should be able to adjust those sights by yourself Antler3, look for a small hex screw which when loosened will let you move the pins up or down, left or right.  Follow the arrow, for instance, if the arrow hits low, move the pin down.  You probably have 3 or 4 pins, and you might consider setting them for 20, 30 and 40 yards.  That's where I have mine, and for estimated ranges from 0-20 I use the first pin, 25 I bracket the aiming point in between, 30 is the second pin, 35 bracketed again.  I have a 40 yard pin, but dont think I would ever take a shot past 30 at anything other than my paper target.  Even at 30 yards, the time of flight of the arrow is enough to give the deer too much time to move.  But 40 and 50 yard taget shots are FUN!  I read something somewhere once, that the shots under 25 yards have a better probability of being accurate due to less error on distance judgements, flatter trajectory and short time fo flight.  Shots on deer over 25 give you a more relaxed deer, hopefully not aware of your presence but are subject to his hearing you release and "jumping the arrow", greeater innaccuracy, and bigger fluctuations on estimation of range.  With the severely arcing trajectory of an arrow, range estimation is critical.  10 yards difference  could give you possibly 12-18 inches at the target.  I did a fair amount of reading, read all the old bowhunting topics from the old web, have a couple friends who shoot, plus my brothers.  I can only give you second hand knowledge, don't have much of my own.  Jay Edwards and  JSBiskup among others can offer you better advice.  Young 12 Gauge also has lots of experience packed into his years.  I'll see if I cant round up some links and post them in a thread.  You're gonna love your new bow, whenever you get the urge to kill some paper you can just go out the back door and let have it.  No need to buy ammo, reload or whatever you do.  Not such a large safety area needed behind your target.  I try to get out once a week and punish this particular box filled with foam and old clothes.  It's probably undeserving of the abuse I give it, but that's what it gets for being lower on the food chain.

Thanks RatherBHuntin, I've alot to learn for sure but am very enthusiastic at this point LOL. The problem am having though is with the arrow fletching hitting the main frame of the bow and knocking it off. It's flying to the right and hitting the arrow rest. Looks like the arms will have to be adjusted or something. I can't wait to get it all tuned up and yea will kill some paper ha ha. Have access to a range finder will get that and work on my distances. A bran new adventure for sure. Have always wanted to learn the use of a bow and am very much looking forward to it. They tell me practice practice practice. Thanks again for your help and for sure will welcome any and all input. Good huntin'  :D

Oh yea, sorry, I meant to say as well that the arrow rests can be adjusted as well. At least some of them can. Mine is a "shoot through" meaning that it has 2 prongs that poke up and to the front, which the arrow rests on and the center bottom fletch goes between the two prongs. Mine at least is adjustable both for center shot (it slides in and out away from the riser) to make sure it rests on it giving it a straight release.
 
 It's tension can also be adjusted. When you release the string, the arrow flexes alot. The tension may need tightened up if the arrow is bottoming out on the bow as it leaves.
 
 You also need to make sure your nocks are turned so that the fletch is centered between the prongs. Just nock the arrow, then twist it until that fletch is centered on the bottom, you can look at it from behind to see. Make sure you have the whole vane centered, as you should have a helical twist, and if the beginning of the vane is centered, the back will be hitting it as it passes through. You can put some powder on the rest to see where the vanes are rubbing.
 
 The nocking point on your string might also need moved up or down. I had to take mine back to the shop after I got it because I was getting vanes torn off. After he moved the nock up just a tad, and I tunred the nocks a skooch more, it was great, even got faster as evidenced from its flatter trajectory. I had to move all my pins closer together.

Thanks RatherB , Sure do appreciate you. All this information will become less complicated to me as time goes on LOL. We have a bow shop here in town and think I will need to take it in and have them help me out until I learn more about it. I've been told they can adjust the bow to fit me. Also make recommendations on arrow length and so forth. This is the first compound bow I have ever held, so tells you just where I'm starting from LOL. I have shot a cross bow a few times but have never had anything to do with a compound. Can't wait until I'm able to sling arrows, just the feel of pulling it back is awesome. I think I'm going to like the challenge of it. Thanks again for your help. I'm sure I'll need more help as I start learning more about it. So stick around ha ha  :D