Hi All,
just acquired some moly coated v max 50 grainers for my 223,what are the advantages/dissadvantages of this coating?Is there any point?
Thanks........................Richie

I have heard that they add a little velocity to the bullet, but am not sure exactly as I have never used them myself.  I believe it was CAfrica who said something about bullet coatings and increased velocity.

Hi Richard,
 
Yeah just seems like some kind of graphite lubricant,weird really bit concerned about fouling problems
Funny story, my grandson visited today he,s 8 came into the garage where I was reloading and went to my wife and said" nana(welsh speak for grandmother) does grampa shoot werewolves cause he,s got silver bullets":D

Sav,
 
I did post some information on another thread, can't remember, might have been on the old forum.
 
In essence the coating reduces the BBL friction.  This means that less force is required to push the bullet through the BBL. This reduces the pressure in the chamber when you fire.  Interestingly, if you load a moly coated bullet and a non moly coated bullet with the same load of powder, the molycoated one would leave the bbl slower than the other.  
 
The point is that by increasing the powder load, you can increase velocities to exceed what is possible with a non coated bullet without reaching dangerous pressure levels.
 
In theory, you should therefore be able to load the bullet to go faster.  There are also all kinds of claims that it reduces BBL wear and copper fouling (but replaces it with Moly fouling).  By the way, Moly is short for Molybdenum Sulphate which is the material used. The coating is applied in several ways, you can buy it in powder form and simply tumble your bullets in it, it will adhere to the copper.  Most manufacturers use some form of coating that looks as if it was painted on but there is no difference in the end effect.  If you seat one of these bullets you will notice that the case scrapes off the moly.
 
Does it work?  Well depends on what you want.  Yes it does allow slightly higher velocities.  The other claims about wear and fouling, the jury is still out.
 
C

There are some instances where the moly has trapped moisture under the fouling resulting in pitted bores. I need to look on my other comp, I think I saved the article. If so, I will post the link here. Im not willing to risk a barrel on using it.

Hi Azhdryder,

Thanks for that,that was one of the things I had heard and was concened about,would this problem occur with a stainless barrel do you think?

Thanks again.......................................Richie

I never would have guessed those kinds of rounds would have such a bad effect on the barrels.  I have some coming in the mail just to try out for 30 cal.  I bought some thinking the bullets would fly a little faster and I liked the all copper construction.  I've got a H&R 30-06 that I use new loads on because it's a single shot.  



If a gun gets cleaned after each use wouldn't that prevent any kind of buildup that could cause a pitting problem.



I'll let you know how it works out for me when I go to the range.  No telling on how long that will be though.

Well, stainless will rust and pit just like blued steel, it just takes longer. Getting moly out of the groves can be very difficult, I have no idea what solvent would budge it. It took a bunch of brush time to get it out of my 300 Win and I'll never use moly again. But, if it works for you, then go for it. Worst that could happen is your barrel pits and get ruined, if nothing happens then you are good:)

I have a hard time believing that a barrel is going to start pitting just because of a moly coated bullet.  Any moisture should be gone after the heat of a fired round.  I could see the moly being a problem if the shooter fires a hundred rounds and then puts the gun in a case for 6 months, (I know guys like that).  I just got some in the mail last night that I had ordered before this thread got started so I will let you all know how well they work.  I'll be trying them out in the 30-06 first and then maybe the 300 RUM.  I'll be sure to clean out the barrels after I fire just to make sure though.  My biggest attraction is the all copper construction of these bullets.



I hope they are accurate in my rifles.  Hopefully I'll have time to load up some rounds tonight.

The only moly coated bullets I use are moly coated lead bullets for handguns.  No leading, which is why I bought them.   The barrel cleans up very easily!

Well, whatever works for you. All I did was answer his question.

I know that one of the byproducts of most combustion is water. An automobile engine produces large quantities of it. I don't know that burning powder produces any but I imagine it does. If any is trapped it would rust. I know shotgun plastic fouling will rust a barrel if you don't scrub it out and I imagine that moly will do the same thing. It is hard to scrub out and must be removed every 75 shots or so from my 270 or I can't hit the longer shots on prarie dogs. Scrub it out. Why take the chance. I love my guns too much to chance it. God bless and good shooting.

Well, lets talk MOLYBDEMUM DISULFIDE (MoS2) for a moment or two!  For ease of typing - hereafter we shall just call it "moly"!
 
Moly is a lubricant in a dry powder form and it is "slicker" than graphite.  It is resistant to high temperatures.  Many, but not all, benchresters and competitive shooters use it.  When moly is used on bullets it reduces friction between bullet and barrel and reduces copper and powder fouling in the barrel allowing a shooter to expend more rounds through a barrel before a good cleaning is required.  For the average hunter........this is no big deal.  Varminters would probably find it helpfull if they use it, especially if they are of the long range shooter variety.  Berger Bullets of Phoenix, Arizona offer their high quality benchrest & varminter bullets with moly or not, depending on what you desire.
 
I use a moly-grease on the bolt rails after they have been polished.  It does make for a much "slicker" bolt travel.  On my personal rifles I put a very small amount on my bolt "sear" and, to me, it improves the "felt" trigger pull.  Once again using moly is strickly personal preference.  I happen to like it and I use it.  I have not encountered any rust problems so far.  As always, your mileage may vary.
 
Ol' John...

Sav17,
I'm in lock-step with John on this, and would add that I have been using Barnes, Nosler and Combined Technology (essentially Nosler), moly-coated bullets in .338. I have seen absolutely zero "buildup" of moly or any other bullet component in the barrels of the rifles I have been using. In my experieince, the moly-coated bullets scoot out the bbl considerably faster than the uncoated ones. This of course requires more powder, but results in similar pressures. In the case of the Barnes, the coppper fouling is reduced to zero. In my experience copper fouling from Barnes uncoated "X" bullets is a serious problem. Copper fouling with Barnes coated "X" bullets is zero, and I have found no noticeable trace of moly left in the bbl.
 
I use them.
 
Paul

The only moly bullet I use is the Speer 90 grain in my 270 winchester. I've found that after about a box and one half (75 shots) I need to scrub the bore to restore the accuracy. The best thing I've found to clean it so far is Kano Kroil and a bronze brush. Hoppes and shooter's choice don't seem to touch it. God bless and good shooting.