Swaging, following on...

Started by j0e_bl0ggs (deceased), February 14, 2013, 01:51:47 AM

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j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

After Paul's escapades it renewed my enthusiasm to deal with my bag full of 17HMR brass.
You may recall that I made an adapter to hold the case on the RCBS Trim-pro case trimmer. It worked well but the 60 seconds to trim a case back was a bear.
Anyroad, was messing with the base etc at work to increase the hight of the trimmer as I was bashing my paw on the bench when trimming cases.
I found that using a cutting lube decreased the cutting pressure and also sped up the process, now down to ~30 seconds.
Was thinking how could I 'motorise' - had a look at the $300 RCBS offering and thought (expletive deleted) - must be another way to do the power thing without getting so complicated...

et voilà;



Drilled and tapped for M6 cap screw, made a plastic twiddly knurled knob, cut the end off of a 'ball end' Allen key (gives a 30º offset) add a battery drill and good to go!

Cut time now~3 seconds - result!

Handle will be forever retired now!
Turvey Stalking
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JaDub

Necessity is the mother of invention  !

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Quote from: JaDub;124077Necessity is the mother of invention  !

Being broke helps!:p
Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
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gitano

Quote from: j0e_bl0ggs;124078Being broke helps!:p
Ain't that the troof!

Nice job. As usual.

I have the same issues with my case trimming tool that is the same 'vintage' as yours. I like the idea. I'll copy it. Although I prolly won't throw the handle away.

Paul

PS - What are the wall thicknesses on those after you swage them out to caliber diameter?
Be nicer than necessary.

RatherBHuntin

I've got the Lyman trimmer, looks just like yours, which has a hex bit that attaches where the handle goes.  When I used a cordless drill on it, I put a block underneath, so the drill is level and I only have to slide it back and forth.  Worked well for me.  Your 30 degree offest does the same thing I guess, relieves the muscle fatigue from holding the drill up?
Glenn

"Politics is supposed to be the world\'s second oldest profession.  I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
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j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

#5
Quote from: RatherBHuntin;124087I've got the Lyman trimmer, looks just like yours, which has a hex bit that attaches where the handle goes.  When I used a cordless drill on it, I put a block underneath, so the drill is level and I only have to slide it back and forth.  Worked well for me.  Your 30 degree offest does the same thing I guess, relieves the muscle fatigue from holding the drill up?


I raised the trimmer on some pads to get it to a more comfortable height for use with the original handle. After trimming a few cases got to thinking about how slow the operation was!
The 30º is not necessary just available (have used ball end keys like this before) so that I do not need to worry too much about alignment when I use it, picture shows the drill 'hanging there' as to the rear of the drill, unseen, is an arbour press and other clutter that is in the way!!! Hmmm maybe need to tidy up a little...

Reality is trimming the HMR is a pain in the donkey (alternative spelling or the UK's latest favourite meat - take your pick*) so had to do something about it.
There are guys over there (USA) using a harbour freight chop saw or 'dremel' type abrasive discs in a pedestal drill to lop off the excess. Although these guys talk up the 'speed' of cutting there is little mention of having to clean up the end of the case, the 'squareness' and more importantly some real consistency in the length of the cut.


An example of a 'harbour freight' saw trimmed case - you can plainly see how the out of square tilted cut affects the nose. Now think of the extra tooling and operation needed to clean that up!




QuoteAin't that the troof!

Nice job. As usual.
I have the same issues with my case trimming tool that is the same  'vintage' as yours. I like the idea. I'll copy it. Although I prolly  won't throw the handle away.
PS - What are the wall thicknesses on those after you swage them out to caliber diameter?    
Cases are approx 8-10 thou wall, have not accurately measured the thickness yet.
I doubt that there will be much difference after swaging as the de-rim die bore is 6.14mm (.2417) allows a thou swage up in core seat and another half thou in the point form or thereabouts.
Have not made 6mm dies for myself as yet. Last set were made for a client and also for a reloading press.
My set will be for my Corbin swage press, much easier die set to make!
I guess the shortened HMR case should produce an 80 ish grain bullet.


* Reminded me of "I'm so hungry I could eat a scabby donkey between two bread vans"
Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
                   "The ONLY reason to register a firearm is for future confiscation - How can it serve ANY other purpose?"

gitano

Probably got the "chop saw" idea from Corbin, as he sells one like that. Although he modifies it to ensure squareness and uniformity in length.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Quote from: gitano;124149Probably got the "chop saw" idea from Corbin, as he sells one like that. Although he modifies it to ensure squareness and uniformity in length.

Paul
Must admit I do not like cutting across 'thin tube'.
Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
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j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

After trimming a bag of HMR brass - even powered was a pain in the 'donkey', I annealed the lot , pickled them in a weak hydrochloric acid to remove the tarnish and began the de-rim process.

22WMR 1.125" long.
17HMR 0.936" long.

Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
                   "The ONLY reason to register a firearm is for future confiscation - How can it serve ANY other purpose?"

gitano

De-rimming process is working very well. Those are good looking jackets. Especially since they are, for all intents and purposes, free.

I forget, are you using lead wire - if so what diameter - or are you extruding or casting your cores?

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Using lead wire, if I recall swg 8 - 0.160" It is what I am using for .224 cal bullets.
The bore ø on these jackets are around .226 which could be interesting in a 'double jacket' experiment!
Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
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gitano

Are you thinking "partition" type configuration with an 'extra' jacket turned upside down in the base, and the 'single' jacket from midway-ish forward?

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
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j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Got to talking with 'he of the high latitudes' about ogives.
So found a tool on evilbay turned out to be very poorly made spent most of yesterday correcting faults like the bearings being swamped with loctite etc.
Anyroad needed to increase the radius available so made an extended tool holder, repositioned the handle and had a play...

Here are some initial results on tool steel.





The machining is a little 'rough' but quickly attended to with a sharp file and some abrasives, in fact only a few minutes to get the finish you can see
Turvey Stalking
Learn from the Limeys or the Canucks, or the Aussies, or the Kiwis, or the...
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gitano

That's the ticket!

I'll be making .338 reamers, and then swaging dies before long. Then come light-for-caliber .338 bullets. I'm thinking no heavier than 160s, and maybe as light as 135. Seems these would be 'good' for the .338-08/Federal/Marlin.

Of course, ONE of the necessities of 'life' will be a way to make my own jackets. Seems to me that a point forming die is a long way down the road toward a jacket-from-tubing forming die.

A tool to cut radii is a BIG help in any swaging endeavor.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

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